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An advantage to this setup is that it takes only seconds to shift from lathe to milling operations. The drawback to the brand-new toolpost (and there's always a downside) is that it limits the size of items which can be turned due to its sheer size; I included the modified compound rest # 1777 from LMS to help accommodate this and eventually modified the cross slide to permit more variety.
My carriage lock is based upon Mike Walsh's design. This would make a beneficial second job although there is more filing, sanding, and polishing than turning. A taper accessory for the mini lathe; it works much better since including struts to stiffen the mounting. Here is a 3C collet chuck to fit the 3MT taper in the minilathe headstock - the raw material for the chuck was a barbell bar.
The equipment is the chuck extractor, the "?" gadget is a wrench to use more torque to the gear. The chuck is shown here in the lathe. The collets are another part of this task; this is a photo of the raw material, a purchased collet, and a partially completed set. To slot the collets I purchased a slitting saw, then made an arbor to fit the collet chuck - here is a photo of the parts. Slitting is sluggish deal with this setup but it gets the job done, witness the collet shown. This collet was not drilled precisely so it is worthless due to extreme runout. Ball bearings were added to the mini-lathe controls, starting with the cross slide followed by the compound (much easier to do than the cross slide).
The cross feed and substance dials were converted to totally free spinning with friction lock simple to do, works well, replaces the friction spring under the dial. My initial reason for getting a lathe was to make items related to my microscopic lense pastime but I entered into messing with lathe associated things.
A 2nd Lucite project was an optical center punch patterned after one discovered on Harlan's site(Vanished 3/13). A mix carriage stop/ dial holder was adapted from EngineMan's style; I copy only the very best! A clamp knurler was constructed from Martin Cleeve's style. His short article recommends using the cross feed to knurl but this puts substantial pressure on the cross feed lead screw and nut; utilizing the carriage feed rather works well and puts less pressure on the device.
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When is a tool height gauge not a tool height gauge?-- you get 2 for the rate of one with this method.
Used a piece of 1/2" Lucite for the flag, the magnet is the rotor from a VCR takeup motor with an aluminum bracket to install the meter; simple, low-cost, efficient.
Ultimately I figured out that withdrawing the compound so the tool point is over the cross slide (not cantilevered out to the headstock side) assists lower chatter and the plinth I made doesn't enable this. This doesn't fit well within the title of my site so I do not know precisely how I'll work that out however after battling this 700 pound guy down the stairs and onto the table, the mill stays!
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A Mini-Tinker cutter mill didn't work as I expected honing end mills so eventually I acquired a cutter mill (see below) which didn't exercise either ... Tool holders to fit my Stage II toolpost were on my to-do list for a while; the brand-new mill made lots of things possible.
I get a much better surface on steel with this toolholder than with regular toolholders and bits so I now utilize this for most turning and facing. This didn't work as well as I hoped so I divided the old nut lengthwise rather but it broke when squeezed so I utilize it with 5 thou backlash.
Eventually I constructed a Brooks-Stent cutter grinder; this is more capable than either of my earlier approaches to end mill honing. I revised the depth stop on my HF drill press (idle hands do the devil's work). This is far more helpful than prepared for, well worth doing. Added DROs to the lathe using 6" scales.
This jig makes the task quick and easy. A little experimenting with this jig showed that it can be used to sharpen numerous lathe (and shaper) bits other than threading bits and the results are plainly better than my hand honing attempts.
I developed a Geo. I do a reasonable quantity of threading so I've developed a routine for it which this tool streamlines.
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Integrated with the withdrawing toolholder this accelerate threading considerably. Built a graver rest for the minilathe; a collet chuck or similar is needed to use it securely. Included a dog clutch type carriage auto-stop to additional improve threading; this offers automated thread pickup on both imperial and metric threads plus it removes need for the thread chasing dial.
As a non-woodworker, the case is an on-going battle although the short-lived case is adequate for now.
GSA SER sample projectER-32 Collets can now be used on the 7x12, Rockwell 10" and the mill-drill.
Built a cut knurler as an experiment. Seems to work well, simpler on the device than the pressure knurler however appears a little fussier to set up. Added info on making counterbores from drill rod. Copied Dan Gelbart's Laser Center Finder concept for use with the mill or drill press.
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a tangential ball cutter. Developed a Tap Chuck primarily to see how the system operated in practice (appears to work well). Made a Lantern Chuck and a Screw Slotter, both of which are likely of interest primarily to clockmakers. Made a knife sharpener to make our kitchen area knives work better.
